Pike quenelle is one of Lyon’s signature dishes, often associated with the city’s famous bouchons, such as the Café des Fédérations. This dish perfectly illustrates the richness of Lyon’s gastronomy, renowned for its simplicity and authenticity.
Here are a few key facts about it:
Origin and Tradition
Quenelle, whose name comes from the German word ‘Knödel’ (meaning ‘dumpling’), is a pastry-based preparation that traditionally combines wheat semolina or flour, butter, milk, eggs and, in this case, pike meat.
Historically, it was created to add value to freshwater fish such as pike, which were often abundant but had a lot of bones. The flesh was worked into a smooth paste, making it a refined delicacy.
As Lyon is situated at the crossroads of trade and waterways, products such as pike from the surrounding rivers found their way into its cuisine.
Classic preparation
Quenelle dough: The base is a panade (a mixture of flour or semolina with butter and milk, cooked to thicken), to which blended pike meat is added.
Shaping: The quenelles are then rolled by hand or shaped into an oblong.
Cooking: They are poached in simmering water before being baked au gratin in the oven.
Accompaniments and sauces
Pike quenelle is traditionally served with a Nantua sauce, a smooth preparation made from crayfish butter and cream. Other variations include tomato or shellfish-based sauces.
The Bouchons Lyonnais
These small, traditional Lyonnais restaurants celebrate local cuisine and serve dishes such as quenelles, as well as other specialities such as tablier de sapeur, cervelle de canut and andouillettes. The Café des Fédérations, in particular, is renowned for offering an authentic experience, with a friendly atmosphere and iconic dishes such as quenelles.
A living heritage
Today, the quenelle remains a symbol of Lyon’s gastronomy, part of France’s culinary heritage. Some craftsmen are carrying on the tradition while offering modernised versions.
